"We get lots of people in hospitality," says Doherty. Doherty stresses that few of his late-night customers are drunk, but concedes the concoction "probably lends itself more to 1am".Īre there enough customers around who want to buy good food in the middle of the night? Duck & Waffle has been opening late since the middle of September, and seemingly, a large proportion of its punters are industry folk. But at 4am, says its chef Dan Doherty, "People indulge in gluttony." One dish includes brioche, bacon, homemade chocolate hazlenut spread, a fried quail's egg and a slab of foie gras. During the day, it sells oysters, scallops and tuna with watermelon. Plenty, Duck & Waffle would argue: it is marketing itself as one of the UK's first high-end restaurants to stay open 24 hours.
You have to wonder how much value is being placed on the quality of the food." "To eat at four o'clock in the morning," says Jay Rayner, the Observer's restaurant critic, "things are either going to be really bad or so good that it doesn't matter where you are. The place has lasted since 1995 by harnessing one of the great truths of eating out: the squiffy don't crave culinary invention. "We have security," says its managing director Simon Prideaux, "who make the call on whether someone has drunk too much." At 11pm, VQ's menu contracts to a few soaky classics: omelette, bangers and mash, a full English. London's oldest all-night restaurant, and the only one with a 24-hour booze licence, is Vingt-Quatre on the Fulham Road. Buddies in Brighton has featured on Channel 5's sociological study Brighton Beach Patrol, and with its fry-ups with lager, pizza and burgers, caters to a distinctly vomity clientele. Which is probably why many late-night British restaurants are aimed at drunk people.
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